Though the situation there has improved somewhat in recent years, after decades of civil war and ethnic violence between the Hutu and Tutsi, Burundi still isn’t an easy place to visit for foreigners. Both the U.S. and U.K. governments currently advise against all nonessential travel to the country, citing crime, terrorism, and bribery among the hazards.

Tourism, though, is on the upswing—at least by historical standards. And Burundi is full of amazing sights, not least some world-class freshwater beaches along the country’s lengthy Lake Tanganyika shoreline. The capital of Bujumbura, which claims that mighty lake for its front yard, has colonial-era buildings, museums, a lively market, and plenty of good spots for exploring the Euro-African cuisine that’s evolved in this long-colonized country.

A trio of national parks highlight Burundi’s ecological diversity: Kibira has highland forests along the Congo-Nile divide, rich in primates; Ruvubu in the east protects savanna and gallery-forest beasts; and Rusizi National Park north of Lake Tanganyika is famed as the home of the 20-foot-long, one-ton Nile crocodile Gustave, who has a reputation as an almost mythically accomplished man-eater. And many consider the ultimate source of the Nile River to be a modest spring on the shoulders of 7000-foot Mount Kikizi.

We can all hope Burundi continues to recover from its prolonged traumas and that its wonderful people, customs, and landscapes become more accessible to conscientious travelers looking to expand their horizons and support local economies. As of yet, though, it’s a bit of a shaky destination—the kind only suited to those well aware of the risks.

10 things not to miss.

  1. Lake Tanganyika
    Boat across Lake Tanganyika
    Lake Tanganyika, Burundi
  2. Royal Drummers of Burundi
    Watch the Royal Drummers of Burundi
    Royal Drummers of Burundi, Burundi
  3. Find the southernmost source of the Nile
    Find the southernmost source of the Nile
    Find the southernmost source of the Nile, Burundi
  4. Bujumbura
    From colonial and Art Déco architecture to Euro-African cuisine, Burundi’s capital has a rich cultural life and fine Lake Tanganyika views.
    Bujumbura, Burundi
  5. Saga Beach
    A stone’s throw from the capital, this popular stretch of sand is widely regarded as one of the prettiest on Lake Tanganyika’s shoreline.
    Saga Beach, Burundi
  6. Rusizi National Park
    A rich wildlife haven, this park’s the infamous headquarters for Gustave, a 20-foot-long Nile crocodile blamed for hundreds of human deaths.
    Rusizi National Park, Burundi
  7. Ruvubu National Park
    Burkina Faso’s largest national park includes bottomland forest, woodland, and savanna home to lions, spotted hyenas, and leopards.
    Ruvubu National Park, Burundi
  8. Headwaters of the Nile
    Where exactly Africa’s longest river originates is a matter of contention, but many claim a spring below Mount Kikizi is the ultimate source.
    Headwaters of the Nile, Burundi
  9. Kibira National Park
    Precious highland rainforest and bamboo jungle roamed by chimpanzees, duikers, and hornbills blanket the Congo-Nile Divide in Kibira.
    Kibira National Park, Burundi
  10. Livingstone-Stanley Monument
    This monolithic stone, which affords a far-reaching vantage over Lake Tanganyika, marks a campsite of Dr. David Livingstone and Henry Morton Stanley.
    Livingstone-Stanley Monument, Burundi