Dominica

You don’t come to Dominica, the northernmost of the Windward Islands, for beachside spas, nightclubs, or hotel pools. Called the “Nature Island of the Caribbean” for a reason, only those tantalized by tropical ecology and outdoor adventure ought to have it in their sights.

Geologically young and volcanically active, Dominica is as rugged as the Caribbean gets. Its gnarled interior includes a central crest of mountains (the loftiest being 4,750-foot Morne Diablotins) gouged by canyons. The trade winds unleash voluminous rains here—more than 300 inches annually in places—on the windward slopes of the Dominican mountains, while the leeward flanks, cast in the divide’s rainshadow, are quite a bit drier.

That tectonic and volcanic forces continue to sculpt Dominica is plain to see in Morne Trois Pitons National Park, which includes the geological wonderland of the Grand Soufriere: the “Valley of Desolation.” It’s a bit of Yellowstone or Iceland transplanted to the Caribbean, what with the scores of hot springs and fumaroles. The centerpiece of this gloriously infernal glen is the cliff-bound Boiling Lake, whose steamy waters are churned by the heat of underground magma. Morne Trois Pitons also encompasses crater lakes, lava tubes, and a magnificent spread of ecosystems ranging from lowland rainforest to moss-swathed cloud forest.

Given the steep terrain and plentiful rains, waterfall-lovers will be in paradise on Dominica. There are many cataracts, probably none as celebrated as Trafalgar Falls, a super-accessible double cascade near Morne Trois Pitons.

Another standout ecotourism site is Cabrits National Park on the northern coast, which extends underwater to protect and showcase some of Dominica’s coral reefs. The Waitukubuli National Trail—the first long-distance footpath in the West Indies—connects Cabrits with Scott’s Head, a peninsula at the south end of the island, offering a 115-mile adventure unlike any other in the Caribbean.

Dominica’s also one of the world’s premier whale-watching sites. While a host of cetaceans frolic in these waters, the undisputed stars are the local sperm whales, which range year-round here courtesy of the island’s fringing deeps. And watching a pod of these toothy, barrel-headed leviathans surge in the shadow of Dominica's sharp ridges will forge some lifelong memories, to say the least.

Because of the scarcity of white-sand beaches and well-developed resorts, Dominica’s fairly untrammeled as far as West Indian isles go. That’s despite the fact that it’s also packed with some of the most breathtaking and verdant tropical scenery and finest ecotourism opportunities in the region. So do yourself a favor, and come discover the Caribbean in the raw.