Nestled between Estonia to the north, Lithuania to the south, and Russia to the east, Latvia truly is the Baltic heartland. You'll find plenty of parallels with its neighbors, but just as many differences.
Latvia has fallen under the control of a wheeling lineup of regional and foreign powers, and its homegrown culture bears the marks of long occupations. Once part of the Germanic province of Medieval Livonia, it was later subsumed into the Lithuanian-Polish commonwealth and then the Russian Empire. As in Lithuania and Estonia, Latvia enjoyed a period of independence following World War I and then again was swept up in geopolitical machinations: It was invaded by Nazi Germany—an occupation that resulted in the deaths of tens of thousands of Latvian Jews—and then, after World War II, was firmly in the hands of Soviet Russia. The Soviet era, which saw many Latvians sent off to Siberian gulags, ended in 1991 following the breakup of the USSR and the Singing Revolution. But many Russians remained in Latvia after it achieved (again) independence, and today more than a third of the country’s population speaks Russian. (The official tongue is Latvian—along with Lithuanian, the only remaining Baltic language.)
The capital of Riga, nearly 1,000 years old, is a cultural hub of the Baltics, famed for its architectural beauty and vibrant spirit. The historic heart of the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Among its famous landmarks are the Riga Castle, the Riga Cathedral, and the Freedom Monument as well as perhaps the world’s foremost inventory of Art Nouveau buildings. And while the capital claims most of the attention, other Latvian towns including Kuldiga and Cesis, are equally well endowed with vintage monuments and layouts.
From the Gulf of Riga to the eastern uplands, Latvia boasts quietly beautiful countryside and a fair share of national parks and preserves—including the North Vidzeme Biosphere reserve, a rich mosaic of coastal ecosystems on the Estonian border. The Baltic seacoast, meanwhile, offers excellent bird-watching, particularly during the spring and fall migrations.
Finally, don’t neglect to eat heartily in Latvia, as the blend of traditional dishes (plainly influenced by German, Russian, and other culinary traditions) and modern haute cuisine echoes the old/new, Western/Eastern mix you detect across the country.
11 things not to miss.
- Riga's Art Nouveau quarterWalk Riga's Art Nouveau quarter
- the Gauja canyonHike the Gauja canyon
- Cape Kolka where two seas meetStand at Cape Kolka where two seas meet
- Riga CastleOriginally built in the 14th century, this colorful castle serves as the Latvian president’s formal residence.
- Riga CathedralOne of the grandest Baltic churches, the Riga Cathedral rose in 1211 and remains one of the Latvian capital’s dominating structures.
- Freedom MonumentThis 140-foot spire, a linchpin of Riga’s center, pays tribute to lives lost during the Latvian War of Independence.
- Museum of the Occupation of LatviaThe building’s rather grim from the outside, but inside is a moving treasure-trove of information on Latvia’s Soviet and Nazi eras.
- Riga Art Nouveau CentreOccupying a recreated early 20th-century apartment complex, this museum sets Riga’s unparalleled Art Nouveau heritage in context.
- Basilica of the AssumptionThis Aglona basilica, built in the late 18th century, nobly showcases late Baroque style.
- Turaida Museum ReserveThe redbrick majesty of the rebuilt Turaida Castle anchors this museum, also home to a vintage wooden church and interpretive trails.
- North Vidzeme Biosphere ReserveCoastal wetlands, sea cliffs, and river canyons are among the highlights of this sanctuary along the Gulf of Riga.
