Moldova

The gently sloping hardwood forests and steppe land farms of Moldova constitute ancient countryside: the old dominion of Bessarabia, trammeled by all manner of ruling powers and invading hordes. Only partly emerged from Russian control, this landlocked republic is among the poorest corners of Europe. It's an enticing travel destination nonetheless, given how thoroughly un-touristy it is—and how tasty Moldovan wine is.

Moldova has spent much of its modern history as part of Romanian and Russian states. And the years since its independence from the Soviet yoke in 1991 haven’t always been smooth sailing: In the east of the country, beyond the Dniester River, the Russian-influenced region of Transnistria has labored—sometimes, as in the 1992 civil war, violently—for sovereignty, and remains effectively outside the control of the Moldovan government.

The capital city of Chisinau—clobbered in World War II, both from an infrastructure and human standpoint—is full of monuments and cultural sights, from the Triumphal Arch to the National Museum of History of Moldova. The city’s therefore an essential point of exploration for anyone looking to understand Moldova’s deep, complex, sometimes-sorrowful history.

Venture afield in the rural Moldova and wander deep woods, fruitful fields, and—yes—better than 100 top-class vineyards. Much of the domestic wine—perhaps the most celebrated of Moldova's exports—comes from the south, but viticulture extends throughout the country. There’s even an official tourist circuit devoted to the grape, succinctly called “The Wine Road in the Republic of Moldova.”

Despite that lovely wine trail, Moldova’s far from front-and-center on most travelers’ Europe itineraries. That’s a shame, because here you’ll find a lot of history and old-time culture plainly displayed, not to mention a broad share of lovely countryside. Sip the wine and muse the tangled backstory: You'll come away enriched, without question.