Visiting North Korea is a unique proposition. Regarded by most of the world as a totalitarian dictatorship, this heavily militarized state is tough to get into—for those foreigners motivated enough to attempt a trip in the first place. If you do (which, as for U.S. citizens, means disregarding the advice of your embassy), you certainly won’t be exploring this shrouded nation on your own terms: Guided—and majorly restricted—travel is the only form of tourism you’ll be permitted to pursue in North Korea.
So: Come prepared to see what your official minders want you to see, and to hear a version of history and society likely at odds with reality. If you’re willing to accept these limitations—and to avoid provocative questions or behavior that could land you in a heap of trouble—North Korea does offer a one-of-a-kind venue for sightseeing. (And, we should add, some foreign visitors expecting the worst have been surprised at their relative freedom while touring the country.)
Many of your forays will likely be to various political and military monuments in the capital city of Pyongyang—the Mansudae Grand Monument, a hulking statue depicting Kim Il-sung (the “Great Leader”) and Kim Jong-il (the “Dear Leader”), the Triumphal Arch, and others. Another prime destination is the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), that bizarre and depressing borderline fronted on both the North and South Korean sides by minefields, wire, weaponry, and stern-faced troops. Here, Panmunjeom marks where the ceasefire agreement suspending the Korean War was signed in 1953—and is as good as any a spot to reflect on the fact that it’s merely an armistice, not any declaration of long-term peace, which prevails between the two countries.
No amount of propaganda, meanwhile, can diminish the beauty of Paektu Mountain, North Korea’s high point. This 9,000-foot volcano, which sits astride the Chinese border, hosts a postcard-perfect crater lake (called, appropriately enough, Heaven Lake) on its summit and supports waterfalls and hot springs on its slopes.
Not all that many travelers aspire to see North Korea, but a select minority do go through the hoops to experience this troubled and mysterious country. Some come for simple bragging rights; others want a clear-eyed look—however rigidly curated—at this long-shackled corner of the world in the hopes of getting a deeper sense of its identity.
10 things not to miss.
- Pyongyang on a permitted itineraryTour Pyongyang on a permitted itinerary
- DMZ from the north sideVisit the DMZ from the north side
- Kaesong's Koryo-era heritageSee Kaesong's Koryo-era heritage
- Pyongyang on an organised visitSee Pyongyang on an organised visit
- Paektu MountainUnquestionably one of the Korean Peninsula’s scenic pinnacles, this 9,000-foot volcano cradles well-named Heaven Lake in its caldera.
- Mount KumgangThis peak’s the centerpiece of a popular recreation area in the coastal Taebaek Mountains, known for waterfalls and lush forests.
- Juche TowerThis 560-foot-tall granite skyscraper, fronted by a Worker’s Party statue, lords over Pyongyang’s austere cityscape.
- Mansudae Grand MonumentBronzes of Kim Il-Sung and Kim Jong-il—the “Great Leader” and “Dear Leader,” respectively—make one of Pyongyang’s best-known landmarks.
- Arch of Triumph (Pyongyang)Built on the occasion of Kim Il-Sung’s 70th birthday, this is one of the biggest triumphal arches in the world.
- The DMZBizarre political atmosphere notwithstanding, the tense buffer zone is an improbable bastion for rare wildlife like cranes and Amur leopards.
